Who could forget the iconic Chanel Spring-Summer 1995 collection? With its midriff-baring jackets, bottom-skimming mini skirts, and jewel-encrusted bras, it was a feast for the eyes (and a little bit of a head-scratcher, too). But that’s what we loved about it–it was unexpected, daring, and unique.
In one fail swoop, Karl Lagerfeld changed Chanel’s image from safe 1930s housewife chic that embraced the Coco Chanel aesthetic of neat, tailored style and good taste into a sexy, daring boundary-pushing era that was 1995.
LEFT & RIGHT IMAGE: CHANEL SS 1995 | MIDDLE IMAGE: CHANEL SS 2023 | SOURCE: VOGUE RUNWAY
Lagerfield’s 1995 grand finale was an ode to Coco Chanel, paying homage by referencing her past. All of our favorite supermodels came down the catwalk on their male counterparts’ shoulders in a recreation of an iconic 1930s photo showing Madame Chanel being boosted up high by her dear friend and ally Serge Lifar.
We still love Chanel’s daring approach to fashion many decades later. The Spring-Summer 2023 collection is a modern take on the ’95 original, with shorter skirts, fitted jackets, and plenty of pearls.
But there are some key differences–namely, the focus on sustainable fashion. The 2023 collection features recycled materials and more environmentally friendly fabrics like organic cotton and linen in a black-and-white dreamscape.
The dreamscape is in homage to Alain Resnais’s surreal 1961 movie offering a reference to the Chanel-designed costumes seen in this wistful French movie and unearthly fashion shoot.
The new collection focuses on primary monotones, there are some pastels, but the accent focuses on tiny details. A pearl here, a flash of a diamond there, and the double C theme punctuates every outfit making it uniquely Chanel.
PHOTO: VOGUE RUNWAY
Models in pop socks grace the catwalk, signalling an end to the 90s heroin chic and embracing body image positivity and an expression of change in high fashion.
2023 handbags are tiny with large Chanel logos or embellished jewels-clad pillboxes, and the shoes give the nod to the classic slingback but pimped and bedazzled to within an inch of their life. 1995 offered us oversized totes and 70s-style platform sandals and a glimpse of sparkly knickers on super-thin models.
While the ’95 collection was all about excess, the 2023 collection feels more refined and polished. It’s still daring and fashion-forward but with a sustainable twist. To get a visual taste of things to come, watch the YouTube video.
We can’t wait to see how this trend develops and feeds down to the high street.
feature Image: VOGUE RUNWAY